Olga, Naryan-Mar
Expedition to Novaya Zemlya, September 2020
Finding oneself on Novaya Zemlya is like finding oneself in a different world. Severe Arctic islands, empty and lifeless at first sight, hold a lot of beauty and wonders. In 10 days of our trip we saw everything we wanted, I guess: polar bears, walruses, whales, a huge amount of birds; we caught Arctic char and made sushi out of it right away. These impressions will be one of the brightest ones in my whole life.
We kicked off from Naryan-Mar, a small cozy Arctic town, where I live and while I love deeply. We followed the Pechora river into the sea. The first day before Novaya Zemlya was the toughest for me, until I got used to the rolling. The first landing was the most exciting one. After two days at sea I was willing to step ashore as soon as possible. That was Britvin Island. After that the route continued to the Rusanov Peninsula and Kuskova Zemlya Island. Sure, the most catchy impression is meeting the Arctic hosts, white giants who were languidly enjoying themselves on almost every island we were passing by.
After Novaya Zemlya we headed for Vaygach, a sacred Nenets island. I could spend hours talking about its history and spirituality, but I would only say that this is the island where Nenets gods live. The men from our team went to pay a visit to one of them, a seven-faced idol; women are forbidden there. Instead I had an incredible opportunity to see the stunningly beautiful river Talata. A piercing scream of a peregrine falcon above a mountainous canyon with the river at its bottom reminded me once again that I was standing on sacred land.
After that we went to Nenets reservation on Matveev Island, a summer residence of other Arctic hosts, walruses. They are huge, awkward in their movements on shore, but very curious at the same time. It's interesting to watch them, though you have to do it at a distance, not to scare them away.
PETER I became our home for these 10 days. Smooth coordination and mutual understanding are very important when you stay for a long time in a closed space. I would like to thank our wonderful captain, caring first mate and the cook who amazed us all with his culinary delicacies three times a day. Our team grew into a huge family with whom I would easily go to the end of the world!